Archive for July 30th, 2008

• Review of a Japanese how-to-sew book #01

  Date: 2008.07.30 | Category: sewn | Response: 0

  I’m planning on doing a series of book reviews for sewing and craft books I’ve bought in Japan.

  This is my ideal basic ‘how to sew’ book. I’ve looked at quite a few of the usual how to sew books in book shops, borrowed them from libraries … but this one I really liked and wanted to buy.

  It’s not a giant, thick book like the Reader’s Digest or the Complete Book … actually, it’s pretty slim. It doesn’t do alterations, nor the names of different parts of the sewing machine and only walks you through making one type of pattern, a simple plain skirt.

  Oh, and in case you’re worried, this book has a full English translation … relieved now? Actually, there are a couple of mistakes in the translations, stuff like “walt” instead of “welt”, but nothing that’s going to affect your understanding. And yes, I plan on comparing the English and the Japanese, to learn a few more sewing terms

  So what does it have?
  -One page on pattern tracing tools (and how to open a Japanese-style tread skein);
  -one page on sewing equipment, including which weight thread and which number needle for light, medium and heavy weight fabric … but I don’t know if the numbering’s the same internationally (I’ve never looked);
  -one page on fabric types and pre-treatment, but the photos are sooo much clearer than it’s competitors, I could actually take this book to a fabric shop and understand what’s what … oh, and pre-treating wool by spraying with water then keeping in a vinyl bag for 5-6 hours, has anyone tried this?
  -one page on laying out your pattern, including what looks a useful method for matching plaids;
  -half a page on seam allowances, in centimetres;
  -one page on interfacing and where to put it;
  -a page on sewing machine tension, photographs of different types of feet;
  -a brief page on seam finishing;
  -one page of hand sewing.

  Remember people, this is all pretty brief. There’s enough information, but you’re kinda assumed to be an intelligent adult, too.

  Now for the really good bit, what I’ve always wanted in a basic sewing book:

  

  What’s good about this book?

  It goes through one each of the types of things you might have to sew: pockets, collars, neck openings (i.e. button bands), sleeves and cuffs, closings (i.e. zips, hook & eyes, buttons, snaps / press-studs). For each type of thing, it has a menu of options – for pockets, do you have patch pocket; a patch pocket with zip; a pant/skirt pocket integrated into the waistband; an in-seam pocket; a two piece bound pocket or a welt pocket? For collars, is it collarless, with a top-stitched facing or not? Do you have a roll collar; a blouse collar; a lapel collar (2 types, depending on whether the lower lapel is bigger or smaller); a shirt collar; a detachable lace collar?

  Then, each of the options on the menu gets a one page spread, showing you how to sew it, step buy step … and best of all WITH A PHOTO OF EVERY STEP. Wow. Exactly what I wanted.

  My only criticism is it doesn’t really show you the order to sew the parts in … except for the section on sewing a skirt at the back, which also has darts (fashion fabric and lining); hems, various waistband options and a vent for walking ease. Oh, and there’s nothing on knit fabric, but then I haven’t seen people wearing half as many knits (T shirts, DVF-stylewrap dresses etc) in Tokyo as I saw in Sydney.

  Oh, and by the way, I was really interested in the frequent use of interfacing, I think it’s used more here than in equivalent books?

  

  I guess it’s not a book for a total “never seen a sewing book in my life before” beginner, but it’s certainly a good basic book. On the back cover, there’s photos of 3 more detailed sewing books, also fully translated – Jackets/Coats; Dresses/Blouses; Skirts/Trousers … I’m seriously considering them …

  Note that it’s unlikely any of these book reviews will be negative: I’m reviewing books I’ve bought, and I have a student-style budget … usually, I’ve taken my time to select books I really like.

  Details
  ISBN:4-579-10617-2

  Japanese Title:
  縫い方の基礎の基礎 わかりやすい写真でマスターする
  Author:八角節子 (trans. 大塚 恵津子)

  English Title:Essence of Sewing
  with coloured illustrations by Hosumi Setsuko
  with English translation by Ohtsuka Etsuko
  Author:Hosumi Setsuko (trans. Ohtsuka Etsuko)

  My rough translation of the Japanese:
  How to sew, the basics of the basics
  Master sewing with easy to understand photographs

  Publisher:Bunka Publishing Bureau
  Date:1994, reprint 1998

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